Three days in Prague – venturing further afield – day 3
09:00 – Good King Wenceslas
Walk all the way up the gently sloping massive boulevard that is Wenceslas Square, avoiding the hawkers and the souvenir shops, and marvel at the Statue of St. Wenceslas at the square’s summit, in front of the gallant (although currently under reconstruction) National Museum building. For a mirror image of the good saint on his steed, find the Lucerna Palace nearby, a maze of indoor corridors that opens up to a huge, hanging statue of St. Wenceslas astride an upside-down horse. Thi is just one of the many unforgettable works of art by local artist and controversial figure David Cerny.
10:00 – adventurous architecture
Take the no. 11 tram from behind the National Museum up to Jiriho z Podebrad Square, often home to bustling farmers markets and the quirky-looking Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord, a unique design by Slovenian architecht Josip Plečnik. Nearby, and impossible to miss, there’s Prague’s TV Tower, which has been rated in some polls as one of the world’s ugliest buildings.
11:30 – time for lunch
Hop on the metro at JzP down to Namesti Miru, and stroll down for lunch at either Dish (gourmet burgers), Las Adelitas (Mexican) or Nota Bene (farm-sourced Czech food). After lunch, take a tram from Jecna street to Karlovo Namesti, which is the largest square in the whole of Europe.
13:00 - a bit of history
Head to the Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius on Resslova street. The church has a fascinating museum in the crypt about the story of the British-trained Czech paratroopers who conspired, and succeeded, in assassinating ReichsProtektor Reinhard Heydrich in 1942. Down the street toward the river sits the famous Dancing House building by architect Frank Gehry, so named because its twisting design looks like two dancers in full swing.
15:00 – a Czech cemetery
Walk down the riverbank – or take a tram – to the fortress of Vysehrad (tram stop Vyton), a sprawling, walled-in grassy area with great views over the city and much to offer. The shady gardens are home to an outdoor amphitheatre that puts on English language Shakespeare productions come summer, as well as the imposing Basilica of Sts. Peter and Paul. Next to the church, the poetic Vyšehrad Cemetery is lovely for a wander round. It’s a peaceful resting place for many famous Czechs, including Alphonse Mucha, Antonin Dvořák, Bedřich Smetana, Karel Čapek and Ema Destinnová.
18:00 – your last supper in Prague
Find the north-eastern exit to the fortress, and the unassuming, winding street of Vratislavova has several good options for a laid-back, delicious dinner. Options include U Semika, which has a pretty, flowery garden in a courtyard out back, and El Paisa, which cooks up authentic Mexican tacos and mean margaritas. Alternatively, you could try U Kroka, which has innovative takes on affordable Czech pub fare as well as many international standards like steaks and salads.